Read more our 7 steps to reblooming your Phalaenopsis>
Q. Our grocery store has been stocking your orchids and I have purchased several. They are vigorous terrific Phaleanopsis specimens and I note that most of them have 3 to 4 spikes per plant. I was wondering how you achieve this. How can I get them to rebloom with so many spikes. I usually only get one or maybe two spikes upon reblooming.
A. The number of flower spikes is associated with both the length of time we grow our plants and the specific variety of orchid. The more spikes, (generally) the older it is. Also some varieties take a little less time than others to grow their flower stems and/or are more likely to get two or more stems. If you’re able to rebloom your two-spiked orchid, you may get three or more flower spikes!
Read more our 7 steps to reblooming your Phalaenopsis>
Q. I have one of your beautiful Miltonia orchid plants from a birthday gift. It has three stems, all blooming (new blooms). When is best to feed? I also have another orchid that had 38 flowers recently, now about 20 flowers. What do I do with the browning stems?
A. We like to feed our orchids after they’re done blooming. They have plenty of nutrients to keep going and going for a long time! You’ll find that flowers start falling, and in two to three months your Miltonia will be done blooming. We recommend removing any brown or dead foliage as you see it. For the healthiest plant, it’s best not to leave it on. You can just hand-pick – or deadhead - these off.
After your Miltonia is finished blooming, you can keep it for its foliage or start fresh with a new plant. Some people in some regions have luck re-blooming, but they are more finicky than Phalaenopsis. If you do want to try, we recommend putting them in an area with slightly cooler nighttime temps to spark blooming. A 15-degree difference should do. They will tolerate varying temps from 60°F nights up to 85°F days. They usually flower in spring, but need a few months of cooler nights to do so. You can also start fertilizing every month with an orchid fertilizer once finished blooming. Find out more at www.matsuinursery.com/reblooming
Q. I was given one of your beautiful yellow Miltonia orchids as I was recovering from surgery and cared for it as instructed but all has now turned brown and I don’t know what to do with it as I am not an experienced orchid grower. Can you give me some advice. Is it going to come back or should I discard it. It was so beautiful I would love to know it will revive.
A. It sounds like your Miltonia may not be doing too well. We consider these orchids a long-lasting “orchid bouquet” and once the foliage starts turning brown in most parts, or falling off, it’s likely time for a new plant. Sometimes this happens after a few months. However, if you’re just seeing the blooms fall off and turn brown, then you can deadhead those and then keep the plant for its foliage. Some climates and growing conditions allow for this plant to be evergreen and long-lasting, and it is a bit more finicky than a Phalaenopsis when it comes to keeping alive for more than a few months or re-blooming. Fortunately, our orchids fall in the $20 range — comparable to a bouquet that lasts just a week —and hopefully you saw blooms for several weeks. We like blooms to last at least four weeks to two months for you, but there are a number of variables, from the way it was handled before you received it to the humidity in your home to the light from your window, that can shorten or lengthen that timespan. Thanks and don’t give up! We recommend trying a Matsui Phalaenopsis for the longest lasting blooms and easiest reblooming.
Q. I was given an Exotic orchid from Matsui as a gift. I love it and have been following your watering directions. It is beginning to drop flowers. Is this normal and will they bloom again?
A. If all of your blooms are wide open (not tight) this is completely normal for your orchid to drop their blooms after a few to several weeks. Most of our varieties of exotics last in-bloom six weeks or more, but some are less. If you’ve followed all the directions on your tag and the orchid looks healthy overall (foliage is upright and green, medium is allowed to almost dry out between waterings and isn’t soggy) then you’re doing a good job! Some orchids are also easier to re-bloom than others. You can check out our reblooming tips for more info!
Read more tips for continuing orchid care>
Q. If one has cut the spent Miltonia stalk of blooms, will the orchid plant regrow a new stalk, or will it remain only foliage? My mother gave me the exquisite plant last year. Thank you.
A. Unlike Phalaenopsis, but much like Exotics, Miltonias have to grow a new pup, or shoot, for it to produce a new stem. The old one will be foliage from that point on.
Q. My sister gave me a beautiful orchid plant and it is no longer in bloom. The last two flowers fell of last week. I have NO clue what to do now to get the plant to re-bloom again. Any suggestions you have for me would be greatly appreciated.
A. Reblooming an orchid does take some time and patience, but it’s relatively easy to do with a Phalaenopsis if you have the right growing conditions. For best success, we have a 7-step process we like to follow. Click on the link below to learn more.
Read our 7 steps to reblooming a Phalaenopsis>
Q. We have a Miltonia orchid that has now finished blooming. We enjoyed this lovely orchid and would like to try to get it to bloom once again. I am new to this type of orchid. It is my understanding from reading about this orchid (via the www) that the existing orchid will not re-bloom and new bloom will only occur with new growth. Is this true? If so, do I divide the orchid now or wait until spring? What environmental signals does this orchid need, if any, to bloom (period of dark, lower night temperature)?
A. Some people in some regions have had luck reblooming, but Miltonia can be more difficult to coax into re-blooming and keeping healthy over the long-term than a Phalaneopsis. They certainly thrive in our Salinas, CA, greenhouses, but it’s difficult to replicate those growing conditions. If you do want to try, we recommend putting them in an area with slightly cooler nighttime temps to spark blooming. A 15-degree difference should do the trick, but it’s not always a sure thing. They like 60% humidity and will tolerate varying temps from 60°F nights up to 85°F days. They usually flower in spring, so now is a good time to start. They need at least a few months of cooler nights to do so. Typically a north-facing window will give you the right amount of light. Yes, new blooms will come on new growth, so you can cut the old stems that had blooms off. However, you don’t need to repot or split the pseudobulbs for about two years. You should also start fertilizing about every month with an orchid fertilizer once finished blooming. If you don’t have luck re-blooming, you can always keep it for its foliage or start fresh with a new plant.
Q. My Nobile Dendrobium has lost all its blooms after giving me much joy. The plant looks very healthy and has two new leafy shoots. I am wondering if I should transplant the Dendrobium to a larger pot than the 6 inch plastic pot it came in? I am also hoping the plant will bloom again.
A. Continue watering and fertilizing as directed. Nobiles will typically bloom once per year, so you’ll need to be patient to have it rebloom. You can also repot, but you don’t necessarily have to go up in size unless it’s outgrown the pot. They do like to be a little “tight” in the pot.
Don’t cut the formerly blooming cane on the Nobile. It needs it to get stronger! You’ll want to continue to care, fertilize, etc because you want to grow another cane. Once that cane grows as big as you think it will get (it will probably be smaller than the previous one), and it has plenty of leaves, you’ll notice a knobby end starting at the top (called a mitten), it will look almost like the very top of a finger. Then you’ll want to go to cooling (dropping the temps down to 55-65°F at night). Once you see flowers, you can bring it back to normal room temp. The methods to rebloom Phalaenopsis are very similar methods to rebloom Nobiles.
Learn more about repotting>
Find out more about reblooming your orchid>
A. Several buds on my Matsui Phalaenopsis seemed to dry up and fall. Was the plant not getting enough water?
Q. Our larger Phalaenopsis orchids (in a 4–5” diameter pot) only need to be watered every 10–14 days under normal room temps (65–75°F), or water when they feel light and dry. In Palm Springs, since it’s dry and hot, and you probably use air conditioning, it may need to be watered more often. Orchids love humidity, so if you can increase the humidity around it or keep it in a bathroom, that would be ideal, but don’t allow it to be constantly wet or stand in water. You can make a humidity tray by placing the plants on a tray of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the pots never sit in water. Matsui Phalaenopsis flowers should last two or three months, so if you’re finding that the plant loses all its blooms before then, you may need to adjust your care.
Read more care tips>
Q. I received a beautiful Phalaenopsis of yours when I was in the hospital. I bought a Grow More fertilizer that's the bloom formula: 6-30-30. But then I read to use the Green 20-10-20 formula for Phalaenopsis. Should I return this? I don't think I saw the green. What would you recommend?
A. We like a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer applied 1x per month, or use an orchid fertilizer and follow the manufacturer's directions. When your orchid is in bloom, there’s no need to fertilize. In fact, one of the best ways to shorten an orchid’s bloom time is by taking too much care of it!
Read more care tips>
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As orchid experts, we love sharing our knowledge and ideas so we can make orchids easy — and fun — for everyone. While it doesn't take much effort to grow our orchids, the more you know about growing them, the easier they are!